FLOORING | INSTALL – REMOVE AND MAINTAIN

FLOORING | INSTALL – REMOVE AND MAINTAIN

FLOORING | INSTALL – REMOVE AND MAINTAIN

You have a number of options. The first and most difficult is to modify or replace the existing door assembly. If you want to use your existing steel door, then the door and jamb assembly must be removed and reinstalled high enough so that the door will clear the floor. This might require some modification in the framing above the door, also. Obviously you will need to do trim replacement and painting/staining both inside and outside the frame.
Another option is to replace the steel door with a wood door, which can then be cut at the bottom. However, if the new gap between the door bottom and the original threshold is too wide for bottom weatherstripping, you may have to cut out the original threshold and install a “generic” threshold slightly raised to accommodate the shorter door.
If you have access to the basement or crawlspace under the floor, you could reinforce the floor with plywood from underneath, or even install a reinforcing post to stiffen it up.
The a less labor-intensive solution would be to use a different flooring material for your entryway. Of course, installing fresh new vinyl flooring is one obvious option. Another is to use slate instead of tile. Slate flooring can generally be installed over thinner floor surfaces than ceramic tile because it is much less prone to breakage over typical 3/4″ plywood. Another option is tongue-and-groove laminated flooring. It is often used in kitchens and bathrooms because of its durability and is available in a wide range of styles from simulated wood to subtle colors.

We have particleboard as the floor surface beneath the carpet now. We want to install self-adhesive tiles. I was told this should not be a problem by one person (the fellow at the home improvement store), then someone else (the guy who was trying to talk me into having his group do the professional installation) told me that I needed to put down more plywood then install the tiles. Neither person has actually looked at the subflooring materials. How do you know when the surface is too rough for the tiles to stay in place? We are on a tight budget for this project and I can’t afford to spend unnecessary funds for unneeded materials. ,

There are two potential problems in installing self-stick tiles over a subfloor. One is the smoothness of the subfloor. To be blunt, the floor should be absolutely smooth! The reason is because any irregularities.. lumps, bumps, seams, nail holes, etc… in the subfloor surface will be transferred through to the tiles over time. This is true of vinyl tile installation over any surface. Even the pattern of a textured sheet vinyl or linoleum floor will appear through the self-stick tile! Now if you are only talking about a imperfections or nail-heads, these can be easily repaired by patching with a quality wood filler or floor leveling compound. Don’t use wallboard patching materials because they may not be hard enough. Sand surface smooth, vacuum and damp-clean to remove all dust before tile installation.
The second problem is at the seams of the floor. If there is any “flexing” or movement at the seams, the tiles will eventually crack across these seams. In most situations, the easiest way to firm up the floor is to install a layer of 1/4″ plywood over the subfloor (nailed or screwed and glued) in such a way that the new plywood seams do not lay over the old seams. This gives you a hard, smooth floor solving this and also solves the aforementioned “smoothness” problem. The nail or screw heads should be “set” below the surface of the floor and the holes filled.
I think the pro was wise to suggest the additional plywood, since he is well aware of the problems associated with poor subfloor preparation. He also knows that, time wise (since his time is money), it could very well take longer to repair a bad floor than to just cover it with plywood. This may not be true in the case of a do-it-yourselfer such as yourself, since you are looking to save money, not time!

Drilling small holes and injecting glue. Will this work?
My 15-year old, but in good shape hardwood floor has some loose planks. It is laid over a concrete slab and I believe some of the planks have lost their adhesive bonding to the concrete. Maybe from moisture seeping through the concrete although we only get about 9 inches of rain in a year (this happened before El Nino) and the most affected planks are far way from the edges of the slab. The tongues-and-grooves hold them in place, but they move vertically. I thought about ,

Before we begin, just a comment. I discourage anyone from gluing any flooring material to a concrete slab that meets the soil. This is simply because few adhesives will form a lasting bond when subjected to the type of moisture that can rise through a slab. Though new homes usually have a vapor barrier installed underneath the slab to keep ground moisture away from it, these systems are not perfect and there is, of course, human error.
Today the manufacturers have gotten flooring installation down to a science with special products designed for use under these difficult conditions. For example, there are special tongue and groove wood floors that are installed over a special paper. The literally “float” over the substrate using no adhesive at all!
Back to your question… you just couldn’t inject enough glue to make a lasting repair. Plus there is probably dust and dirt under the floor that would prevent the glue from sticking well, even if you could inject enough. The only lasting repair I know of is to take the loose sections of floor up, clean all dust and dirt from the slab and reglue. You will have to sacrifice at least a board or two to free up the others in the loose area. Here is a short description of the procedure…
First, you will have to remove one or even a few of the strips to release the rest from the tongues and grooves. You should be able to decide which and how many pieces to remove by looking at how they overlap.
Drill a number of holes into a selected strip. Then break it into pieces with a wood chisel
and remove it. Another method would be to use a hand circular saw with the blade set so that it does not penetrate the boards completely… again breaking the strip up. Please be careful with the depth setting of your circular saw and also with your drilling… the concrete below will destroy drills and saw blades and, even worse, a circular saw may lose a tooth or kickback! That can hurt!
Now that you have removed the loose flooring, the following steps should be followed:
(1) clean up any dust or debris under the floor.
(2) apply a flooring adhesive to the floor and also apply a thin coat (called “buttering”) the back of each strip right before installation.
(3) Install the replacement flooring, piece by piece. You can start from either side, but I have found that starting from the side that has a “tongue” rather than a “groove” makes for a slightly easier repair. However, I understand that may not be possible in some situations.

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